DORMICE
MICRO SQUIRRELS
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CARE GUIDE
MICRO-SQUIRRELS
AFRICAN PYGMY DORMICE
Enclosure: (will depend on how many mice you have)
Recommend 20 gallon or what I use is the ECO-25 GALLON PVC ENCLOSURE FROM REPTILE HABITATES WITH THE SCREEN TOP. VERTICLE VERSION 16.25Lxt17.25Wx17.25H with screen top.
My colonies conist of pairs and trios. I never house more than this and dont recommend unless you have a much bigger enclosure.
You can house as many females in one cage with tons of hiding spaces
You can house as many males in one cage with tons of hiding spaces
If you mix the sexes only have 1 male per cage as I've seen the females will pick on the one they don't like.
African Pygmy Dormice enclosures should be a large vivarium, as they are arboreal; it is suggested no smaller than a 20 gallon tank (the larger the better) for a small colony. Other options are Repti-breeze chameleon enclosure & Exo-terra terrarium. Dormice are extremely active and need plenty of climbing material, natural enrichment such as branches and logs, as well as plenty of hides and nesting sites (1 per Dormouse). Branches taken straight from woods (Avoid Roadside collecting). Trim the dry branches to size, be sure to use good quality woods for your Dormouse setup. Before use, 1st place them in the oven for around 20 minutes to remove any parasites to make sure they're safe for rodent use. A Dormouse setup will need as many nest boxes as animals in your habitat, to reduce territorial disputes for dominance. Amazon sells many nesting box options with small entrances-holes and multi-chambered, as well as suspended hollowed out coconuts which are favored by keepers. However, do bear in mind that there will be occasions when you may need access to these nests in order to clean them or access babies; especially for a new pair or new colony or an inexperienced owner. The hides will also aid in territorial disputes that occur in larger colonies. It needs to be kept at a minimum temperature of 70°F and up to 80° to prevent them entering a state of torpor. Also, be sure to note that the tank lid should be secure, as Dormice can be escape artists at times. There are No known issues using screen enclosures; they don't seem to chew it, but they do love running all over it. A solid plastic or wooden wheel is great for exercise and a necessity. As for the substrate, I recommend the snake Aspen shaving bedding, as it is low dust and moldable for nesting material. I always recommend to mite treat all wood shaving bedding to avoid issues or mite outbreaks. ‘Sevin dust (food grade)’ is recommended and safe; you can also use pure Diatomaceous earth. Lightly dust the bottom of the enclosure and place the shavings over and mix together. Alternative substrates would be the recycled paper bedding, coconut husk or regular Aspen shavings. AVOID using Pine, Cedar or bedding with color dyes, as these can cause respiratory issues.
Diet:
African Pygmy Dormice need a VERY varied diet; including provisions made for nectar, since a wild Dormouse diet would not only include nectar and pollen but also saps and other sweet gums. Live food such as crickets, mealworms and fly larvae can also be introduced and provide vital natural enrichment. Dormice love their fruits, which should be given daily in small quantity to avoid an obese Dormouse. Citrus fruits are NOT approved, but the following are: apples, bananas, blueberries, cherries, mango, melon, papaya, pear, persimmon, physalis, sharon fruit and tomato. Dried fruit is often ignored, so fresh fruit is best. You can choose to chop fresh fruits or there is the alternative utilizing organic baby food (Fruit only) Just be sure to change every other day, to keep fresh. You can provide a nice quality hamster/gerbil food mix that can comprise of items such as hemp, millet, linseed, macademias, maize, nygerseed, pinhead oatmeal, pine nuts, pumpkin seeds, rolled oats, safflower, sunflower seeds together with finch/parakeet seed base. Fennel seed can be added to reduce the smell of urine. Millet sprays can be hung from your enclosure as well, for enrichment. Scientist say Dormice CANNOT digest plant cellulose, the material of plant cell walls, fiber such as wood, plant leaves and stalks they will ignore the majority of a hamster or mouse mix. Remember to place food somewhere high up where it is less likely to be fouled and change the dishes as needed. Although they get a lot of moisture from their fresh fruit, you must supply a source of water in either a dish or bowl; refreshed daily. As for a Nectar food source; provide locally sourced pollen, organic honey and organic maple syrup; you can mix it altogether or provide separately in a dish. They also sell pre-made Nectar pods for sugar gliders, in which they love. If Not providing insects dried or alive in addition to their seed mix; then you can provide an insectivore diet, quality cat food (Blue buffalo Wilderness Kitten), boiled or scrambled eggs, small amounts of boiled chicken, salmon or tuna (in spring water preferred) into their dietary regimen. Remember: Scientists say they cannot digest vegetable matter as they lack a cecum, however several keepers have fed mixed veggies consisting of carrot, peas, corn and green beans with success. We however stick with the Scientists with our recommendations, to avoid veggies. Mealworms, monkey nuts, sunflower seeds, and pumpkin seeds are great as a treat to assist with taming or simply bonding. Honey soaked seed bars suitable for parakeets and cuttle bones are also a great enrichment tools to be added into any habitat.
I have added a few other items to their diet, HPW sugar glider food and Crested Gecko Diet (Used these to prevent hair loss)
Behavior:
African Pygmy Dormice behavior is agile, quick and very curious inquiring creatures who are hugely active at dusk and dawn. This means they need a great deal of enrichment, nests, climbing and places to hide to reduce the risks of fighting and to avoid inducing unnecessary stress. Dormice are generally a shy, however can grow to become more confident and familiar with humans through regular interaction. This is why daily bonding, touching and handling from a young age is crucial. This will vary from animal to animal with some being simply too swift and shy to tame for handling. They are best considered an animal to watch rather than interact with, due to their levels of stress. Those that can be handled will prefer to climb all over their human, sit or sleep in their hands and hide in pockets and are unlikely to stay still for long; sometimes tolerating gentle stroking. Bonding pouches or pockets can be used for bonding purposes; though care must be taken to avoid injury from their small size and speed. Dormice that are not keen on being touched, may be happy simply by taking food from familiar hands. They are extremely curious and do seem fascinated by voices; so have a conversation with them as they will listen! NEVER grab your Dormouse by the body as they are fragile and they will most likely bite, due to fear of restraint. AVOID grabbing the Dormouse by the tail, as it has the ability to 'slip off' or 'drop'. Always gently scoop up your Dormouse. BE AWARE: Dormice can also Drop their tails, which will allow the tail to break off in order to avoid a predator in the wild. If this occurs, DO NOT PANIC, they will be fine and it will heal on its own. However, ideally separate that Dormouse into a clean enclosure until it heals (1 week) and provide additional monitoring; in case of an infection arises (Extremely Rare) - seek veterinary assistance. For observation, you can obtain a red light or black light to view during the night, when they become most active. This will allow them to keep their natural routine, as they are very sensitive to the light. Rapid breathing is a sign of distress, so be mindful of this when interacting with them. The Dormouse sounds for anger are very sharp and easy to recognize. Do not be concerned if a dormouse pauses for longer periods of time at once - this is part of being a prey animal since movements would attract the attention of predators. Dormice may become quite lethargic in daytime, becoming more active at dusk and dawn. They will conceal signs of illness very well, and often you will only see the very end stages of a problem. You should therefore keep an eye out for any significant changes in behavior, coat condition, and injuries. Territory disputes can be brutal; you should always ensure you have a spare habitat to separate animals into if needed. Always ideal to have an Exotic animal veterinarian, in case of emergency. If your dormice is cold to the touch however, it may be in a state of torpor. This means that the temperature is too low, (68* Fahrenheit 20* Celsius or Lower) and it believes it needs to conserve its own body fat due to a lack of available food. If this is the case, warm up your Dormouse utilizing the warmth of hands, by simply cupping your hands around them. You can also use a heating pad indirectly, space heater or heat lamps. Once warmed, its crucial to have fresh water, honey/syrup/pollen mix (mentioned in Diet section)to bring your Dormouse glucose levels back up, that were depleted when reducing its body temperature. Dormice can DIE from this state, so it is important to ensure you keep their environment at a warm enough temperature. Dormice should have plenty of bedding, as well as access to food and water. Dormice can get stressed out very easily, which can also lead to torpor. If you have to take them on a long car journey or send them in transport. Be sure to have additional nesting material and a hide 'if possible' in the container, to help reduce light and create a secure dark environment for travel; as well as the honey/syrup/pollen (mentioned in Diet section) mix available.
Sexing:
African Pygmy Dormice reach sexual maturity around 2-4 months and are one of the hardest rodents to sex. The best method to sexing your Dormice; is to place pups in a see-through jar or container that they cannot escape from. The best age for identifying sex is 15 weeks. The space between the genital and anal openings is greater in the male than the female. In the center of the genital vents the female has a dot and the male has a more button-shape - similar to Guinea Pigs. At 10-12 weeks males will have a notable skin patch and protrusion at the base of their tails, where their testicles are. At 10-12 weeks a female will not have a skin patch or will have a very small one, however will not have a bulge at the tail base. Once they are sexually mature 15/18 weeks; the Males have large testicular bulges under their tails making this much easier to identify. Female dormice have prominent nipples if pregnant or lactating, blowing on belly fur may help reveal this for young dormice. Due to the difficulty in sexing, and the long time to mature you may find a lot of breeders sell their young as unsexed. Avoid buying Dormice under 10 weeks from inexperienced breeders to avoid a misidentification. Buy from reputable experienced breeders; which can sex their young as early as 8 weeks of age.
Handling:
Handling your African Pygmy Dormice often and from a young age (2 weeks onward) is essential to establish a nice hand-tame Dormouse. Breeding pairs will typically still be quite timid and due to their speed and agility, you'll want to hold them carefully and in a safe and confined environment. We recommend you use a tent to begin with, until you and your Dormouse have established a comfortable bond. Pouches offer an alternative bonding method as well, just use caution as they are still very tiny creatures and you'll want to ensure it has plenty of ventilation. Gently scoop up your Dormouse and allow them to climb on you and have free roam, maybe even hide in your shirt pockets. Scooping them is the ideal method. Use gentle touch and strokes to adapt your Dormouse to being handled. Hand feeding treats (See Diet Post) can be a welcoming commodity as well. NEVER grab your Dormouse, this can lead to an unwanted nip/bite into your hand, but also distrust of you. NEVER grab your Dormouse by the tail, as they have the ability to drop/slip their tails off. This is a defense mechanism they use in the wild to escape their predators. However, DO NOT PANIC as they will heal up just fine. Please use extra care!
THEY ARE FAST LIKE LIGHTNING. Don't matter how social and tame your dormouse is, they will get startled very easily.
Vocals:
African Pygmy Dormice sounds include an insect-like clicking, an enquiring 'thrumming' sound, and a sharp bark when distressed. Baby Dormice will make a faint click/zipping noise or high pitched clicking noise when distressed. The sounds are surprisingly loud for such small creatures with some colonies being extremely vocal
Staple food I use:
Mazuri softbill low iron bird food
Brown’s bird lovers blend with cranberries Fancy Finch bird seed
I also mix Diatomaceous Dirt in the food to prevent moths
HPW Sugar glider Mix
Crested Gecko Food
Honey
MICRO-SQUIRRELS
AFRICAN PYGMY DORMICE
Enclosure: (will depend on how many mice you have)
Recommend 20 gallon or what I use is the ECO-25 GALLON PVC ENCLOSURE FROM REPTILE HABITATES WITH THE SCREEN TOP. VERTICLE VERSION 16.25Lxt17.25Wx17.25H with screen top.
My colonies conist of pairs and trios. I never house more than this and dont recommend unless you have a much bigger enclosure.
You can house as many females in one cage with tons of hiding spaces
You can house as many males in one cage with tons of hiding spaces
If you mix the sexes only have 1 male per cage as I've seen the females will pick on the one they don't like.
African Pygmy Dormice enclosures should be a large vivarium, as they are arboreal; it is suggested no smaller than a 20 gallon tank (the larger the better) for a small colony. Other options are Repti-breeze chameleon enclosure & Exo-terra terrarium. Dormice are extremely active and need plenty of climbing material, natural enrichment such as branches and logs, as well as plenty of hides and nesting sites (1 per Dormouse). Branches taken straight from woods (Avoid Roadside collecting). Trim the dry branches to size, be sure to use good quality woods for your Dormouse setup. Before use, 1st place them in the oven for around 20 minutes to remove any parasites to make sure they're safe for rodent use. A Dormouse setup will need as many nest boxes as animals in your habitat, to reduce territorial disputes for dominance. Amazon sells many nesting box options with small entrances-holes and multi-chambered, as well as suspended hollowed out coconuts which are favored by keepers. However, do bear in mind that there will be occasions when you may need access to these nests in order to clean them or access babies; especially for a new pair or new colony or an inexperienced owner. The hides will also aid in territorial disputes that occur in larger colonies. It needs to be kept at a minimum temperature of 70°F and up to 80° to prevent them entering a state of torpor. Also, be sure to note that the tank lid should be secure, as Dormice can be escape artists at times. There are No known issues using screen enclosures; they don't seem to chew it, but they do love running all over it. A solid plastic or wooden wheel is great for exercise and a necessity. As for the substrate, I recommend the snake Aspen shaving bedding, as it is low dust and moldable for nesting material. I always recommend to mite treat all wood shaving bedding to avoid issues or mite outbreaks. ‘Sevin dust (food grade)’ is recommended and safe; you can also use pure Diatomaceous earth. Lightly dust the bottom of the enclosure and place the shavings over and mix together. Alternative substrates would be the recycled paper bedding, coconut husk or regular Aspen shavings. AVOID using Pine, Cedar or bedding with color dyes, as these can cause respiratory issues.
Diet:
African Pygmy Dormice need a VERY varied diet; including provisions made for nectar, since a wild Dormouse diet would not only include nectar and pollen but also saps and other sweet gums. Live food such as crickets, mealworms and fly larvae can also be introduced and provide vital natural enrichment. Dormice love their fruits, which should be given daily in small quantity to avoid an obese Dormouse. Citrus fruits are NOT approved, but the following are: apples, bananas, blueberries, cherries, mango, melon, papaya, pear, persimmon, physalis, sharon fruit and tomato. Dried fruit is often ignored, so fresh fruit is best. You can choose to chop fresh fruits or there is the alternative utilizing organic baby food (Fruit only) Just be sure to change every other day, to keep fresh. You can provide a nice quality hamster/gerbil food mix that can comprise of items such as hemp, millet, linseed, macademias, maize, nygerseed, pinhead oatmeal, pine nuts, pumpkin seeds, rolled oats, safflower, sunflower seeds together with finch/parakeet seed base. Fennel seed can be added to reduce the smell of urine. Millet sprays can be hung from your enclosure as well, for enrichment. Scientist say Dormice CANNOT digest plant cellulose, the material of plant cell walls, fiber such as wood, plant leaves and stalks they will ignore the majority of a hamster or mouse mix. Remember to place food somewhere high up where it is less likely to be fouled and change the dishes as needed. Although they get a lot of moisture from their fresh fruit, you must supply a source of water in either a dish or bowl; refreshed daily. As for a Nectar food source; provide locally sourced pollen, organic honey and organic maple syrup; you can mix it altogether or provide separately in a dish. They also sell pre-made Nectar pods for sugar gliders, in which they love. If Not providing insects dried or alive in addition to their seed mix; then you can provide an insectivore diet, quality cat food (Blue buffalo Wilderness Kitten), boiled or scrambled eggs, small amounts of boiled chicken, salmon or tuna (in spring water preferred) into their dietary regimen. Remember: Scientists say they cannot digest vegetable matter as they lack a cecum, however several keepers have fed mixed veggies consisting of carrot, peas, corn and green beans with success. We however stick with the Scientists with our recommendations, to avoid veggies. Mealworms, monkey nuts, sunflower seeds, and pumpkin seeds are great as a treat to assist with taming or simply bonding. Honey soaked seed bars suitable for parakeets and cuttle bones are also a great enrichment tools to be added into any habitat.
I have added a few other items to their diet, HPW sugar glider food and Crested Gecko Diet (Used these to prevent hair loss)
Behavior:
African Pygmy Dormice behavior is agile, quick and very curious inquiring creatures who are hugely active at dusk and dawn. This means they need a great deal of enrichment, nests, climbing and places to hide to reduce the risks of fighting and to avoid inducing unnecessary stress. Dormice are generally a shy, however can grow to become more confident and familiar with humans through regular interaction. This is why daily bonding, touching and handling from a young age is crucial. This will vary from animal to animal with some being simply too swift and shy to tame for handling. They are best considered an animal to watch rather than interact with, due to their levels of stress. Those that can be handled will prefer to climb all over their human, sit or sleep in their hands and hide in pockets and are unlikely to stay still for long; sometimes tolerating gentle stroking. Bonding pouches or pockets can be used for bonding purposes; though care must be taken to avoid injury from their small size and speed. Dormice that are not keen on being touched, may be happy simply by taking food from familiar hands. They are extremely curious and do seem fascinated by voices; so have a conversation with them as they will listen! NEVER grab your Dormouse by the body as they are fragile and they will most likely bite, due to fear of restraint. AVOID grabbing the Dormouse by the tail, as it has the ability to 'slip off' or 'drop'. Always gently scoop up your Dormouse. BE AWARE: Dormice can also Drop their tails, which will allow the tail to break off in order to avoid a predator in the wild. If this occurs, DO NOT PANIC, they will be fine and it will heal on its own. However, ideally separate that Dormouse into a clean enclosure until it heals (1 week) and provide additional monitoring; in case of an infection arises (Extremely Rare) - seek veterinary assistance. For observation, you can obtain a red light or black light to view during the night, when they become most active. This will allow them to keep their natural routine, as they are very sensitive to the light. Rapid breathing is a sign of distress, so be mindful of this when interacting with them. The Dormouse sounds for anger are very sharp and easy to recognize. Do not be concerned if a dormouse pauses for longer periods of time at once - this is part of being a prey animal since movements would attract the attention of predators. Dormice may become quite lethargic in daytime, becoming more active at dusk and dawn. They will conceal signs of illness very well, and often you will only see the very end stages of a problem. You should therefore keep an eye out for any significant changes in behavior, coat condition, and injuries. Territory disputes can be brutal; you should always ensure you have a spare habitat to separate animals into if needed. Always ideal to have an Exotic animal veterinarian, in case of emergency. If your dormice is cold to the touch however, it may be in a state of torpor. This means that the temperature is too low, (68* Fahrenheit 20* Celsius or Lower) and it believes it needs to conserve its own body fat due to a lack of available food. If this is the case, warm up your Dormouse utilizing the warmth of hands, by simply cupping your hands around them. You can also use a heating pad indirectly, space heater or heat lamps. Once warmed, its crucial to have fresh water, honey/syrup/pollen mix (mentioned in Diet section)to bring your Dormouse glucose levels back up, that were depleted when reducing its body temperature. Dormice can DIE from this state, so it is important to ensure you keep their environment at a warm enough temperature. Dormice should have plenty of bedding, as well as access to food and water. Dormice can get stressed out very easily, which can also lead to torpor. If you have to take them on a long car journey or send them in transport. Be sure to have additional nesting material and a hide 'if possible' in the container, to help reduce light and create a secure dark environment for travel; as well as the honey/syrup/pollen (mentioned in Diet section) mix available.
Sexing:
African Pygmy Dormice reach sexual maturity around 2-4 months and are one of the hardest rodents to sex. The best method to sexing your Dormice; is to place pups in a see-through jar or container that they cannot escape from. The best age for identifying sex is 15 weeks. The space between the genital and anal openings is greater in the male than the female. In the center of the genital vents the female has a dot and the male has a more button-shape - similar to Guinea Pigs. At 10-12 weeks males will have a notable skin patch and protrusion at the base of their tails, where their testicles are. At 10-12 weeks a female will not have a skin patch or will have a very small one, however will not have a bulge at the tail base. Once they are sexually mature 15/18 weeks; the Males have large testicular bulges under their tails making this much easier to identify. Female dormice have prominent nipples if pregnant or lactating, blowing on belly fur may help reveal this for young dormice. Due to the difficulty in sexing, and the long time to mature you may find a lot of breeders sell their young as unsexed. Avoid buying Dormice under 10 weeks from inexperienced breeders to avoid a misidentification. Buy from reputable experienced breeders; which can sex their young as early as 8 weeks of age.
Handling:
Handling your African Pygmy Dormice often and from a young age (2 weeks onward) is essential to establish a nice hand-tame Dormouse. Breeding pairs will typically still be quite timid and due to their speed and agility, you'll want to hold them carefully and in a safe and confined environment. We recommend you use a tent to begin with, until you and your Dormouse have established a comfortable bond. Pouches offer an alternative bonding method as well, just use caution as they are still very tiny creatures and you'll want to ensure it has plenty of ventilation. Gently scoop up your Dormouse and allow them to climb on you and have free roam, maybe even hide in your shirt pockets. Scooping them is the ideal method. Use gentle touch and strokes to adapt your Dormouse to being handled. Hand feeding treats (See Diet Post) can be a welcoming commodity as well. NEVER grab your Dormouse, this can lead to an unwanted nip/bite into your hand, but also distrust of you. NEVER grab your Dormouse by the tail, as they have the ability to drop/slip their tails off. This is a defense mechanism they use in the wild to escape their predators. However, DO NOT PANIC as they will heal up just fine. Please use extra care!
THEY ARE FAST LIKE LIGHTNING. Don't matter how social and tame your dormouse is, they will get startled very easily.
Vocals:
African Pygmy Dormice sounds include an insect-like clicking, an enquiring 'thrumming' sound, and a sharp bark when distressed. Baby Dormice will make a faint click/zipping noise or high pitched clicking noise when distressed. The sounds are surprisingly loud for such small creatures with some colonies being extremely vocal
Staple food I use:
Mazuri softbill low iron bird food
Brown’s bird lovers blend with cranberries Fancy Finch bird seed
I also mix Diatomaceous Dirt in the food to prevent moths
HPW Sugar glider Mix
Crested Gecko Food
Honey